Thursday, August 19, 2010

Durban: A Last Hoorah


Today is my last full day in Durban and my last day at the Legal Resources Centre. The last week in Durban has been a bit more exciting one than usual. I got started back at work last Thursday. There hadn’t been too much change in the office over my time in Beijing (the nature of NGOs), but Jessica left Durban which left the office feeling a little emptier. Luckily, two other UChicago undergrads happened to be exploring Durban for the weekend, one who’s been spending her summer in Cape Town, the other in Pietermaritzburg, about an hour away from Durban.

Friday night was uneventful, but filled with decent Mexican food from Florida Road. Saturday, I was happy to do all sorts of tourist-type things that I had yet to do in Durban, despite having arrived in June. In the morning, we three UChicagoers explored Essenwood Market, a small crafts and flea market about a ten minute walk from where I’ve been living for the summer. We had lunch there: some traditional KZN Indian “Bunny Chow,” curry stuffed inside of a loaf of bread (I’ve dubbed it the Indian version of a bread bowl). After Essenwood, where I bought a few souvenirs to take back home, we headed to the city center for a walking tour that we had previously reserved.

The tour repeated lots that I had already seen in the city (it took place mainly in the immediate neighborhood of my office), but we did explore some areas that I hadn’t yet been to. For example, we visited a supermarket that was housed in an old Catholic church, and visited a mosque that we were told was the largest in the Southern hemisphere, capable of hosting thousands of people for prayer each day. We also visited Durban’s Catholic, which was surprisingly small. We went back to Victoria Market – the “bead ladies” weren’t there, as they only come on Fridays – were we visited an Indian spice merchant. We tried a variety of spices and mixtures; I bought the “Rice Spice” to use back in Chicago. I also tried “Mother-In-Law Hellfire,” which we were told is given to a bride-to-be from the mother-in-law’s kitchen as a test to see if the young lady is worthy to be married. I was too afraid to try the “Durban Poison,” which is meant to scare off all visitors.

We also visited the fish and meat market. It was the end of the market day (around 3pm), so not much was left, and the stench of rotting fish filled the area. We saw many, many remains of cattle: heads, feet, tail, etc and very bizarre looking fish – items I didn’t imagine were going to be sold before the market closed. Our tour ended after the market; we were very near my office, so I showed Kayla and Karla the Diakonia Centre, where the LRC is located (it’s a converted church and a very pretty building, so it really is worth a look). After, we headed to Wilson’s Wharf, a spot a five-minute walk from the LRC with various restaurants along a pier; a nice place to sit and watch the sunset.





Later that night, we met again on Florida Road for dinner and a night out. We eventually met with some Duke undergrads that Karla had met through her job in Pietermaritzburg. Over all, a fun night. Karla (who spent the night on my floor) and I got brunch the next morning before she returned to ‘maritzburg. Monday, I came to work a little later than usual: Kayla (who would leave Durban in the afternoon) and I went to Durban’s Moses Madhiba Stadium (where the World Cup matches were held) to do the “SkyWalk,” a climb up the stadium’s incredibly high arch. The SkyWalk was incredible; reaching the top was a very cathartic moment, standing atop the stadium where I had spent many hours watching the world’s most impressive soccer stars, thinking of all the people who had occupied the stadium, taking in the wonderful .views of the city where I’d spent my summer...





Kayla left directly after the SkyWalk. I walked along the path between the stadium and the Casino, where I caught a cab to get to the office. The days went by as usual. I spent some time with a Durban local, the son of the housekeeper of the apartment complex where I am residing, and learned a little bit more of the life of the youth in Durban and South Africa. I have been a little demoralized and taken aback by the raging, though skilfully hidden by FIFA, xenophobia and racism that still plagues the country; it was very interesting to hear the point of view of someone my age. Sakhi is what South Africa considers “coloured,” the American equivalent of mixed-race. (When I first heard that “coloured” was a legitimate race classification, I was extremely shocked; but the word does not hold the same meaning or connotation as it would in America.) He is part Xhosa, Zulu and white, but explained to me that most people say he looks fully Zulu. (Something he says may actually be an advantage, because coloured people are often harassed and seen in a negative light.)

Kamala and I took of a little bit early from work yesterday, as neither of us had taken a lunch break. She drove me down to uShaka Marine World, one of Durban's most talked about attractions, which combines aquarium with water park with beach, shopping center and many restaurants. We had a late lunch of sushi sitting at nice table over looking all of Durban and the ocean; I was sad not to have brought my camera. Karla came back to visit Durban last night. We had wanted to go to dinner at Durban's most famed Indian restaurant, Silverani's, but were disappointed to find it closed. We tried Cafe 1999, right next door, instead. The dinner turned out to be extremely delicious; we shared a "trio" appetizer, and I indulged in a duck dish served with caramelized onions and crispy goat's cheese.

Work today started off as usual, but during our daily "tea time," I was greeted with a beautiful good-bye chocolate (!) cake and nice parting gift and card. I was truly touched! The whole office came together to have tea, which rarely happens; it was a wonderful opportunity to say goodbye to everyone. Kamala and I went out for lunch together - I showed her my favorite vegetarian Indian restaurant that I go to at least once a week. As usual, it didn't disappoint, and they even gave us some free dessert for my last day. The dessert was absolutely delicious, and I've since looked up the recipe online. It was a lovely last day of work. Kamala drove me home, where I collapsed on my bed and took a longer-than-intended nap.

Now I'm in my apartment for one last night in Durban, wondering what I should do with my last few hours, while remembering all the packing I must do. It's been a wonderful time, and I'm excited to set off on my next journey of the summer!

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Pictures from China!

At Grand Epoch City

The MUNUC Crew

With one of my favorite delegates.

With Joyce at the Bird's Nest


The UNCND: My committee!

My delegates hard at work.

Fake dragons and blue sky (a rare occurrence) at the Grand Epoch City


Wednesday, August 11, 2010

WEMUN 2010

My time in China is over, and I am currently en route back to South Africa. Once again, I find myself in Dubai International Airport, with not much to do. I am already missing Beijing: what an amazing two weeks.

The “Training Camp” proved to be one of the most rewarding experiences of my life. I spent four days with two groups of Chinese high schoolers (some were middle school age), teaching a course on Public Speaking and Debate in Model UN. I didn’t think I would enjoy teaching as much as I did. The classes were so much fun; I got to know each of the students well by asking them to make speeches about their favorite hobbies. I tried to balance the classes between lecturing about how to make a good speech/what makes Model UN speaking slightly different and making sure the students were having fun. At the end of every session, the students were asked to fill out evaluation forms; they definitely enjoyed the class. (Some of the reviews included: “Best facilitator ever!” “Amazing class, amazing teacher…” The review that touched me the most and made me realize that I was doing some really worthwhile read: “Thank you. I spoke without look at the paper all the time… Yes! I can! You give be the opportunity, and I have become brave. Thank you, please keep your style of teaching! Love you”)

Along with our daily classes, we (the facilitators) were also asked to lead two hour-long workshops, one on a topic relating to the UN, another on any topic we wanted. I led a workshop on Women’s Rights and the UN, and The World Cup: Say No to Racism, which I led with a student from UPenn.

The training session was lots of fun, and we were given quite a bit of free time, during which I explored the giant Grand Epoch City. I do wish it had been located in Beijing proper, I might have been able to get to know the city a little bit better. I also would have eaten something other than the daily mass-produced mediocre (occasionally above average) food provided to us by the hotel.

The night the Training Camp ended, all the facilitators went into Beijing for dinner and a night out on the town. At dinner, we met other university students who were coming to lead committees at the Model UN conference, but had not participated in the camp. They were too tired to come out with us afterward, so it was just the original group. Beijing nightlife was certainly different than anything I had ever experienced before – it was extremely fun. On our way back to GEC, we made a late stop at McDonald’s, which tastes exactly the same in China as it does in the United States. We spent the next day getting ready for conference: going over logistics, meeting our assistant directors, finding our committee rooms (which were spread out all over the convention center – I got lucky: my room, though much too small, was located in the hotel in which we stayed and that had all the meals), etc.

The conference flew by. My committee, the United Nation Commission on Narcotic Drugs (UNCND), was lots of fun, and was comprised of fifty extremely gifted students from six countries around the world: China, Japan, Singapore, USA, Switzerland and India. Most of the delegates were engaged from the start, and I was surprised by the amount of research and preparation many of them had devoted to the committee. After some debate at the beginning of the first session, the delegates chose to take on Topic A, Opium Production in Afghanistan. (I personally prefer Topic B, Cocaine Trafficking through West Africa, but only a couple of the delegates seemed enthusiastic about it.) Over the four days, the committee debated, wrote working papers, draft resolutions and ultimately passed a resolution with a host of solutions and recommendations to solve the problem.

I was able to entertain the committee by arranging for “expert speakers” to offer some information that I thought they were missing in their debates: Anne (from UPenn), who was not running a committee at the conference, posed as an American soldier stationed in Helmund province of Afghanistan, a friend from UChicago recorded a video posing as an Indian minister of finance, and two of the other directors came in to pose as a representative of the IMF and an envoy from North Korea. I could go on about how wonderful the committee was, but the unbiased Press Corps delegation from the BBC, who wrote an article about the committee, does it for me: “The atmosphere during the committee’s sessions has been a balance between a serious approach to the topic, and a light and open atmosphere which enables delegates to share their country’s views comfortably…. Whenever there was a pause in the discussion, such as during the numerous instances of roses being delivered to the clearly popular Director [that’s me], the delegates felt free to laugh at the chair’s jokes and be at ease; yet, the moment discussion was resumed decorum immediately returned and the proceedings continued.”

The evenings were just as fun as the committee sessions. The first night, not much was going on because everyone was so exhausted. “Global Village” was the main event of the second evening: essentially a World’s Fair where all the schools set up a booth representing either their home country or the country they represent at the conference. I had lots of fun exploring the Village, and got lots of free treats from many booths. The Indian delegations took a particular liking to me, and at the end of the evening I left with two new scarves, a collection of bindis, henna on my hands and some unidentified snacks. I ate lots, from delicious Swiss chocolate, to even the brave undertaking of chowing down a grilled cockroach from the Chinese table. When asked what the latter tasted like, I responded, “like dry, crunchy, gross dust.”

The following night was the Masquerade Ball, a big dance for all the delegates. The directors were encouraged to perform for the delegates, so the UPenn students and I choreographed a dance to the ever-popular Wannabe, by the Spice Girls. The dance went over extremely well – I definitely felt like a celebrity with all the pictures that were being taken. I stayed at the dance for quite some time, enjoying the dancing and music, and eventually left with a handful of other directors to the outdoor grill/bar area outside our hotel. That part of the evening proved to be extremely entertaining, and ended with my leading (standing atop a table) a giant sing-along of American classics for a huge group of directors, assistant directors and even delegates.

The last day of conference came much too quickly. My delegates passed their resolution with two hours to spare in the session, so we spent the rest of the time taking pictures and exchanging emails. After closing ceremonies, the directors returned to Beijing. We were supposed to stay in the hotel where we had stayed for two nights before leaving for Grand Epoch, but due to some miscommunication and disorganization among the WEMUN staff, we found ourselves in Beijing without hotel rooms. Eventually, after midnight, we were relocated to another hotel. A group of us that had planned to go to the Barça game were pretty annoyed. That night, I decided to extend my stay in Beijing by 24 hours; I just didn’t want to leave quite yet.

The next day consisted of sleeping in, hot-pot for lunch and a trip to Silk Market in the afternoon. This time, I didn’t buy anything that could serve as a display in Mom’s copyright infringement exhibit in her office, but did invest in a very cheap phone after having lost by beloved BlackBerry the day before. A group of us (myself, my friend Gideon, the UPenn kids, two Georgetown and on Harvard) found a small dumpling restaurant for dinner. At night, we went out on the town, and met up with many members of the WEMUN staff; the night was really a wonderful way to end my time in China.

My flight wasn’t until 11:55pm last night, so I had time to explore a little bit more during the day. After a sad goodbye with two UPenn students with whom I really got along with in the morning, I was invited out to lunch by one of Mom’s old students. The lunch was at a traditional Sichuan restaurant (Sichuan food is known for being the spiciest in China - I began to tear up after eating one of the dishes). After lunch, I went with Anne, Jocelyn (another UPenn) and Joyce to the Olympic Village, where we saw the famous Bird’s Nest and Water Cube. After a sad goodbye, the three of them left for dinner to celebrate Joyce’s birthday. I didn’t go because I was getting worried about catching my flight. Instead, I had arranged to meet with Gideon in front of the Cube. To my dismay, we couldn’t find each other, and after walking around the cube for an hour, I decided I had to go back to the hotel to get my things and head the airport. I was very disappointed to have missed Gideon; we won’t be seeing each other until April, as he is abroad in the Fall, and I will be away in the Winter.

On my way to the airport, I began to get very upset at the idea of leaving Beijing after such a wonderful experience. I had never imagined that the two weeks would have been so enriching and fun, and I am really hoping to return again next summer. The trip presented even more than just a wonderful two weeks: one of the advisers from a school in India, after encouragement from two of her students who were delegates in my committee, invited me to be a chair at her school’s UN conference in New Delhi this coming November. If all the details work out, I will be there!

(Pictures to come soon.)