Durban: A Last Hoorah

Today is my last full day in Durban and my last day at the Legal Resources Centre. The last week in Durban has been a bit more exciting one than usual. I got started back at work last Thursday. There hadn’t been too much change in the office over my time in Beijing (the nature of NGOs), but Jessica left Durban which left the office feeling a little emptier. Luckily, two other UChicago undergrads happened to be exploring Durban for the weekend, one who’s been spending her summer in Cape Town, the other in Pietermaritzburg, about an hour away from Durban.

Friday night was uneventful, but filled with decent Mexican food from Florida Road. Saturday, I was happy to do all sorts of tourist-type things that I had yet to do in Durban, despite having arrived in June. In the morning, we three UChicagoers explored Essenwood Market, a small crafts and flea market about a ten minute walk from where I’ve been living for the summer. We had lunch there: some traditional KZN Indian “Bunny Chow,” curry stuffed inside of a loaf of bread (I’ve dubbed it the Indian version of a bread bowl). After Essenwood, where I bought a few souvenirs to take back home, we headed to the city center for a walking tour that we had previously reserved.

The tour repeated lots that I had already seen in the city (it took place mainly in the immediate neighborhood of my office), but we did explore some areas that I hadn’t yet been to. For example, we visited a supermarket that was housed in an old Catholic church, and visited a mosque that we were told was the largest in the Southern hemisphere, capable of hosting thousands of people for prayer each day. We also visited Durban’s Catholic, which was surprisingly small. We went back to Victoria Market – the “bead ladies” weren’t there, as they only come on Fridays – were we visited an Indian spice merchant. We tried a variety of spices and mixtures; I bought the “Rice Spice” to use back in Chicago. I also tried “Mother-In-Law Hellfire,” which we were told is given to a bride-to-be from the mother-in-law’s kitchen as a test to see if the young lady is worthy to be married. I was too afraid to try the “Durban Poison,” which is meant to scare off all visitors.

We also visited the fish and meat market. It was the end of the market day (around 3pm), so not much was left, and the stench of rotting fish filled the area. We saw many, many remains of cattle: heads, feet, tail, etc and very bizarre looking fish – items I didn’t imagine were going to be sold before the market closed. Our tour ended after the market; we were very near my office, so I showed Kayla and Karla the Diakonia Centre, where the LRC is located (it’s a converted church and a very pretty building, so it really is worth a look). After, we headed to Wilson’s Wharf, a spot a five-minute walk from the LRC with various restaurants along a pier; a nice place to sit and watch the sunset.

Later that night, we met again on Florida Road for dinner and a night out. We eventually met with some Duke undergrads that Karla had met through her job in Pietermaritzburg. Over all, a fun night. Karla (who spent the night on my floor) and I got brunch the next morning before she returned to ‘maritzburg. Monday, I came to work a little later than usual: Kayla (who would leave Durban in the afternoon) and I went to Durban’s Moses Madhiba Stadium (where the World Cup matches were held) to do the “SkyWalk,” a climb up the stadium’s incredibly high arch. The SkyWalk was incredible; reaching the top was a very cathartic moment, standing atop the stadium where I had spent many hours watching the world’s most impressive soccer stars, thinking of all the people who had occupied the stadium, taking in the wonderful .views of the city where I’d spent my summer...

Kayla left directly after the SkyWalk. I walked along the path between the stadium and the Casino, where I caught a cab to get to the office. The days went by as usual. I spent some time with a Durban local, the son of the housekeeper of the apartment complex where I am residing, and learned a little bit more of the life of the youth in Durban and South Africa. I have been a little demoralized and taken aback by the raging, though skilfully hidden by FIFA, xenophobia and racism that still plagues the country; it was very interesting to hear the point of view of someone my age. Sakhi is what South Africa considers “coloured,” the American equivalent of mixed-race. (When I first heard that “coloured” was a legitimate race classification, I was extremely shocked; but the word does not hold the same meaning or connotation as it would in America.) He is part Xhosa, Zulu and white, but explained to me that most people say he looks fully Zulu. (Something he says may actually be an advantage, because coloured people are often harassed and seen in a negative light.)

Kamala and I took of a little bit early from work yesterday, as neither of us had taken a lunch break. She drove me down to uShaka Marine World, one of Durban's most talked about attractions, which combines aquarium with water park with beach, shopping center and many restaurants. We had a late lunch of sushi sitting at nice table over looking all of Durban and the ocean; I was sad not to have brought my camera. Karla came back to visit Durban last night. We had wanted to go to dinner at Durban's most famed Indian restaurant, Silverani's, but were disappointed to find it closed. We tried Cafe 1999, right next door, instead. The dinner turned out to be extremely delicious; we shared a "trio" appetizer, and I indulged in a duck dish served with caramelized onions and crispy goat's cheese.

Work today started off as usual, but during our daily "tea time," I was greeted with a beautiful good-bye chocolate (!) cake and nice parting gift and card. I was truly touched! The whole office came together to have tea, which rarely happens; it was a wonderful opportunity to say goodbye to everyone. Kamala and I went out for lunch together - I showed her my favorite vegetarian Indian restaurant that I go to at least once a week. As usual, it didn't disappoint, and they even gave us some free dessert for my last day. The dessert was absolutely delicious, and I've since looked up the recipe online. It was a lovely last day of work. Kamala drove me home, where I collapsed on my bed and took a longer-than-intended nap.

Now I'm in my apartment for one last night in Durban, wondering what I should do with my last few hours, while remembering all the packing I must do. It's been a wonderful time, and I'm excited to set off on my next journey of the summer!